Year in review: top 10 watches and jewellery stories 2022

Wallpaper* watches & jewellery editor Hannah Silver reveals her top 10 watches and jewellery stories of 2022

Discover Wallpaper* watches & jewellery editor Hannah Silver's top 10 watches and jewellery posts of 2022, from Rolex's new Air-King and Bulgari's play with mirrors to Tabayer's fluid gold jewellery and Shihara's minimalist marriage with Michael Anastassiades.

Anissa Kermiche draws on the literary and cultural links between flowers and female sexuality in new fine jewellery collection ‘Deflowered’. Kermiche was inspired by artists including Georgia O’Keefe, Robert Mapplethorpe and Edward Weston and the sexual undertones of flowers they portrayed in their work, drawing these same curving forms in sculpted gold and pearls.

The stars align in this collaboration between Omega and Swatch, with the new MoonSwatch watch collection drawing on their shared interest in space. Eleven watches named after the planets rethink the familiar form of Omega's Speedmaster Moonwatch chronograph, here interpreted in Bioceramic. The material, crafted two-thirds in ceramic and one-third in a castor oil derivative, is recognised as a more environmentally friendly option than plastic. Silky smooth to the feel but reassuringly tough, it makes a hard-wearing base for the plethora of bright colours it comes in.

Best known for his pared-back lighting creations, Cyprus-born, London-based designer Michael Anastassiades has turned his hand to minimalist jewellery, partnering with Japanese brand Shihara. ‘The most important thing to consider when designing jewellery is its relation to the human body and the space it occupies when worn,’ he says. ‘I love the improvisation behind an abstract piece and the challenge it presents when it comes to wearing it. A strong design can exist in multiple ways. Shihara jewellery has that quality.’

Rolex builds on a rich aviation history with the release of the new Oyster Perpetual Air-King. The new model rethinks a classic watch design, with straight sides and a crown guard redrawing the parameters of the case.

‘With hip-hop, the history of the jewellery is woven into the fabric of the music,’ says author Vikki Tobak, who has explored the relationship between the two creative fields in her new book published by Taschen, Ice Cold. A Hip-Hop Jewelry History. Travelling back four decades and including essays by Slick Rick, A$AP Ferg and LL Cool J, amongst others, the tome touches on everything from street style to the biggest names in hip-hop and iconic jewellers. Here, Tobak tells us what drew her to the subject, what surprised her in her research, and her delight at the power of a good watch collection.

Girard-Perregaux is paying tribute to the 1970s with the re-release of quartz watch the Casquette. The newly launched Casquette 2.0 encases the original neo-futuristic, elongated design and updated quartz movement in sleek ceramic and titanium.

‘I’m from Uzbekistan, where amulets are part of our culture and close-knit family traditions, so I’ve always been inspired by the power and symbolism of jewellery,’ says founder and CEO of Tabayer, Nigora Tokhtabayeva. ‘When I moved to the US, I found a different way of life, different architecture, different spaces, the expanse of the Miami city, the parks, and modernist sculpture.

‘There I also formed a very diverse friendship group with incredible women of different backgrounds from all corners of the world, and came to the realisation that symbols of protection were linked to religious symbols. This realisation made me want to create something universal that could be worn by all of my friends.’

Since Samuel Ross won the first Hublot Design Prize in 2019, creating a sculpture for the brand's 40th anniversary and serving as an ambassador for Hublot, the British fashion designer has reimagined the label's iconic Big Bang timepiece to bring a new perspective and visual language to watchmaking. Issued in a limited edition of 50, the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross brandishes a satin-finish, polished titanium case, a smooth rubber strap in Ross’ signature orange shade and an architectural honeycomb structure, making it a true collector's piece.

Wedding bands encompass fluid curves in the hands of Sophie Bille Brahe, whose new bridal collection slots seamlessly into her popular diamond engagement rings. Thirteen diamond styles in total stay faithful to the undulating curves of the jewellery designer's engagement rings. The first collection of eight pieces fit into familiar styles such as the Ensemble Escargot, Ensemble Croissant and Grand Ensemble Ocean collection. A second collection of five pieces shifts the focus to a pavé setting for the first time, featuring one- and two-carat designs.

The familiar form of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo watch has been rethought in a collaboration between the brand and Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima, who together imbue the piece with a mirror effect in a dazzling play on light.

Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.

The new Volvo EX30 is the smallest car in Volvo's range. The full electric SUV provides a compelling mix of forward-thinking interior design with innovative materials and Google technology

By Jonathan Bell•Published 7 June 23

Lucy Anderson plays with abstract geometrical concepts for simple and elegant jewellery pieces

By Mazzi Odu•Published 7 June 23

Arkina Architectural Design has created a vast beachside home for hire on the shores of the Caribbean, carved from concrete and set within a tropical garden

By Jonathan Bell•Published 7 June 23

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Year in review: top 10 watches and jewellery stories 2022